Welcome to HobbyNook.com! Rotating Header Image

Photography

Entry Level Strobe Lights You Will Keep Forever.

The number one question by beginner photographers is about lighting. Light is the key to quality photography and can run from $25.00 to tens of thousands for top professional name brand equipment. If you have several thousand to spend then almost any known brand you want to buy will be of good quality and last for many years. Trying to purchase a low cost unit that really works is where many get in trouble.

Light Options

  • Digital Power Adjustment
  • Head and Power Pack
  • Well Made Case
  • Compact Size
  • Quality Warranty

May go to Ebay for used equipment but Craig’s list is local and you can see whatr you are buying so that is a good place to look. Since quality lights usually last a long time you may find a lot of very old units. Some will be higher voltage than what can be safely connected to new digital cameras . Most can be used but you would need a voltage converter to reduce the power to a safe level. With those same older units most did not have brightness adjustments and were basic one brightness flash. All adjustments would be made in camera or with additional filters and compared to new adjustable units would be very hard to use. I would not suggest purchasing old flash units.

Both new and old units come in 2 variations. They are both strobe lights for photography .The first is a Head and power supply. The head is nothing but the strobe light without any power. The power unit is required to supply power to the strobe. Several heads can be connected to the power unit depending on the watt seconds required and model of the power unit. The heads can be much less expensive than self contained Mono light units. On the other hand the power supply unit can get expensive and must fit the head you purchased. Most start around $500.00 and quickly get over $1000.00 and as much as $5000.00 for top of the line power supplies. Before you buy a head make sure you know the cost of the power supply required to use it. Mono units have a built in power supply and require no additional attachments for use.

Modern flash units with low voltage connections and adjustable output are the units you would want to look at. If you look on Ebay you will find dozens of sellers offering dirt cheap continous lights and strobe units.The low cost continous lights found online usually don’t have enough power for photography. I would say at least 2 units at a minimum of 2000 watts each. Most of the time they will cost more than a good quality entry level strobe light. Strobes start at under $100.00 and go into the thousands.

Many love a brand called Alien Bee which is made in the USA and sold online. It is a quality unit and will work as described. For about the same money I really like a brand made by Camulet Photo called Genesis. They come in both 200 Watt Seconds
(WS) and 400 WS. The 200 Watt unit is a Mono Light so it is totally self contained. Simply plug in a AC outlet and it is ready to use. They sell new for under $175.00 each and provide consistant light output, digital adjustment and even color (White Balance).For action shots they would not be the best choice. A high end light with much faster flash burst would be required.

How much power is enough? For portrait work I find 200WS more than enough. For lighting platinum jewelry or any rings that is more than enough. I use from 1-4 lights depending on the look I want. I seldom use the lights at full power. 95% of the time I am under 75% power or less. In a large room shooting for a auto dealership I needed a lot more than what the 200watt units could provide. A 600 watt unit I have did not even make a difference. I could have used at least 4-5 of the 1000watt units for that one job to even out the bright outside light with the inside light .Renting would have been an option but I had time for a totally free option. My solution was to use 6 lights and wait until the exterior light reduced to a point my lighting would be bright enough. Sure if you purchase1000-3000 watt units you would have more light just in case you ever need it but may find you cannot turn the power low enough for some creative applications where a wide open lens is wanted. Too much power may not allow a mix of strobe and natural light or room light from a lamp to enhance the photo.

I would start with a quality brand Mono unit and spend a good amount of my budget on light modifiers. That is where real light control happens and the more options you have the better light control you will have. A $1200.00 strobe with a $10.00 unbrella will not give you as much light control as a $200.00 strobe with a good quality Soft Box and grid cover. Remember lighting for photography is not all about power, it is about control of the light.

Low Cost Lighting For Portrait Photography

Most think you must have a massive investment in lighting to do a good job. Portrait photography is the same as any other area of photography. You must know how to use your equipment and understand light and angles. The light can be man make from strobes or a continous source. It can also be from windows or open doorways. The source of the light does not matter. What counts is how you control or modify the light. I learned light control when doing jewelry photography. I photographed both jewelry , wedding bands and diamond engagement rings. They required total light control or the reflections would ruin your shot.

What you need for portrait photography

  • Colored Matte Boards-Optional
  • White Sheet – Optional
  • Arm-less Chair
  • White Foam Core Board-Optional
  • DSLR Camera

One of the first things you need to understand is what good light looks like. Walk outside at 12:00 noon on a bright hot day. Where I live that means clear skies and at least 100 degrees. Try to open your eyes and even the reflection from the sidewalk is blinding. This is not good light. Go back inside the air conditioned house and cool down. Now when the sun moves to the back side of your home go to the opposide side. Open the front door and let the soft even light flow in. Notice how it lights a path about 3 feet into the room. This is what I would call nice soft light. Hold up a black poster board and see how it blocks sections of the light. This can be done to increase slight shadows and add depth to your portrait. You can also increase the light by bouncing off a white poster board. This will fill shadows or add light on one side to produce slight shadows on the opposite side. Watch for reflections from cars, sidewalks and buildings. What you see is what you get so play around with it and watch for changes. Go slow and watch for tiny changes, slight lighting variations are the difference between a common snapshot and a portrait.

The next step would be positioning the model. I would bring an armless chair or stool to sit on. For most portrait photography you want to hide the problem areas and bring out the eyes. Shooting down at a slight angle will do this most of the time. With the model in the chair place a solid color backing behind her. I prefer brown or other earth tones. Black is OK but a bit harsh and can mix with dark colored hair since we are not using an above the head hair light for seperation. The low position of the model does provide a touch of a natural hair light but not enough to define dark black hair against a dark black background.

Pick one of your better quality, longer lenses for the photo. I like 100-200mm range but from 85mm -300 will give tou a nice look. 24mm and even 50mm can make the subject look wider or a little distorted plus it does not work well with the angel you will be shooting at. Adjust your ISO and shutter speed. I like my portraits taken at around F4.5.-F5 This gives a sharp face with a very slight softness starting at the ears and back. Under this you may have sharp eyes but the nose may look soft which is not good for portraits. If using a lower cost lens you may need to start at F5.6 which will work fine.

Accurate color reprodustion can be easy if you custom white balance before every session. This way I get much better skin tones and can go a touch warmer or cooler in post processing while still knowing what my neutral ( balanced ) shot looks like. Most of the time I leave it as shoot. During processing I may give my background a slight burn at low opacity to increase the depth. Same with the hair or clothing. I may also give the face a tiny bit more depth or contrast depending on how close I got my lighting during the shoot. Using this style of shooting you should have a very nice portrait.

Always make sure you do your photo processing on a color corected monitor. My main screen is corerected and looks 99% the same as my lab prints. My not so costly laptop does not have the adjustments and the photos never look correct. If you are serious about doing portraits invest in a good monitor and color correction softwear.